Sumac: An Edible Wild Plant

Several varieties of sumac grow abundantly in North America, but this wild edible still remains little-known to many foragers. Edible wild plants are gaining popularity as culinary elements-- both as spices and as key features in meals. Sumac, a flavorful edible wild plant, can be an excellent addition to the wild-gathered pantry of any foraging chef.

Sumac's flavor has been compared to lemon, although it is not quite as tart and has a more earthy, lightly bitter flavor to complement is mild sweetness. There are many wild edible species of sumac that grow in North America, several more that are endemic to Eurasia, and dozens of unique varieties that grow in Africa. Each regional species has its own signature flavor.

The fruit of the sumac plant is recognizable to most people who have lived in rural or suburban regions of the United States. Although the appearance of the plant varies depending on region and species, sumac generally grows as a shrub or small tree, with spiraling leaves, five-leaved flowers, and fruits that form in large, dense clusters that are usually red in color.

Because its fruits reach peak maturity when cool weather hits, sumac is best foraged in early to mid autumn. The many species of edible wild sumac mature at different rates and show different features as they become ready for harvest, so check the profiles of your local varieties before harvesting.

Several species of sumac are toxic, so sumac should only be gathered as a wild edible by foragers who have definitively identified the species they are seeking. Poisoning or serious injury could occur from accidentally ingesting an inedible variety of sumac. Although the toxic species look quite different from any of the edible wild species, care should be taken to assure a correct identification.

Sumac's primary use throughout the world is as a seasoning spice. In Middle Eastern cuisine, it is often dried and powdered, to be used as a spice. Persian and Turkish cuisine especially tend to make use of its delightfully tart flavor. As someone who grew up eating Iranian meals, I developed a strong affinity for sumac's tangy taste and it is now served with all meals, alongside salt and pepper, in my own home.

As a spice, sumac tastes excellent served over rice, kebobs, meats, curries, and meat substitutes, and it can also add an uncommonly delicious flavor to soups and stews. Sumac can also provide a surprisingly exotic flavor to common American foods, like oven fries, carrots, and pasta sauces. I have found that its taste is an especially welcome addition to root-bakes and any food containing garlic.

Another favorite use for sumac in my family is as a flavoring for lemonade, either alone or with lemons. Foraged sumac can be used to form a tart beverage that tastes remarkably similar to actual lemonade, so it can provide a bioregional alternative for people who have no lemons locally available. It can also complement the flavor of a lemonade made from the more traditional citrus fruit.

Sumac lemonade is best made by soaking the fruit clusters in ice-cold water and rubbing them continuously until a significant amount of its rich, red color is released into the water. When the fruits have yielded a strong extract, the mixture can then be strained through a filter or a cheese cloth, so that all debris is caught. The mock-lemonade, made fully from wild edibles, can be sweetened with honey to maintain a fully bioregional source.

Although common, sumac's rich culinary qualities remain unknown to most people living in North America. Its flavor can make a fine, wild-harvested addition to any forager's collection of spices and edible fruits, and it can grant variety to a kitchen made bland by a lack of wild foods.